The Pagan Girl (Ajdovska Deklica)
The Pagan Girl on Vršič Pass in Slovenia is a stone relief sculpture depicting the face of a young woman. It is located on a steep rock face along the Vršič Pass road, which is a high mountain pass in the Julian Alps. The sculpture was created in the early 20th century by Russian prisoners of war during World War I, who were forced to build the road under harsh conditions. The Pagan Girl, also known as “Ajdovska Deklica” in Slovene, is entwined with local folklore, symbolizing a mythical giantess who was turned to stone. The relief stands as a poignant reminder of the historical events and the cultural legends of the region.
How to get there
Drive up the pass either from Kranjska Gora or Bovec. At the very top of the pass, park by the postman’s lodge. Walk up the road opposite, and follow the gravel road up in the direction of Tičarjev dom hut. Continue past it for about 10 min until you get to the second hut. From here you have clear views of the north wall of Mt Prisojnik and the Pagan girl rock formation.
How to photograph it
Ideally you will need a 200-300mm lens to get up close. Otherwise, you can crop the image if you have enough resolution. The image above was shot at 105mm and cropped into a vertical with my Canon EOS R5.
Morning is the best time photograph the face, which she is still in the shade. Otherwise, on a cloudy or overcast day.
The Legend
Long ago, in the heart of the Julian Alps, where the peaks touched the sky and the forests whispered ancient secrets, there lived a giantess named Ajdovska Deklica, the Pagan Girl. She was a gentle spirit, known for her wisdom and kindness, often seen wandering the mountain paths, her flowing hair blending with the wildflowers and her laughter echoing through the valleys.
The villagers in the valley below revered Ajdovska Deklica. They believed she was a guardian of the mountains, a being of immense power who could summon the winds and control the rivers. Her presence was a blessing, bringing bountiful harvests and protecting the people from natural disasters. Yet, despite her benevolence, there were those who envied and feared her power.
One bitter winter, a cruel and ambitious sorcerer came to the village. He coveted the power of the mountains and saw Ajdovska Deklica as an obstacle to his plans. Disguised as a humble traveler, he ingratiated himself with the villagers and learned of the giantess’s routines and weaknesses.
One frosty evening, the sorcerer climbed the treacherous paths to Vršič Pass, carrying with him a potion of dark magic. He waited until the giantess was alone, resting by a secluded spring, her guard down in the tranquil night. With a swift and silent motion, he poured the potion into the water. As Ajdovska Deklica drank from the spring, a curse took hold of her.
Pain and sorrow filled her as she felt her body stiffen and turn cold. Realizing the betrayal, she let out a heart-wrenching cry that reverberated through the mountains. Her form began to transform, her skin turning to stone, her flowing hair freezing into rocky strands. In her final moments, she cast a spell of protection over the valley, ensuring the sorcerer could never harm her beloved people.
The next morning, the villagers awoke to find their guardian gone, her place marked by a beautiful yet sorrowful stone relief on the rock face of Vršič Pass. The likeness of Ajdovska Deklica, with her serene and wise eyes, became a timeless sentinel overlooking the valley. The villagers mourned their loss but felt her presence in every breeze that rustled the leaves and every stream that sparkled in the sun.
The legend of the Pagan Girl spread far and wide, and the stone relief became a symbol of sacrifice and protection. Travelers and mountaineers who passed through Vršič Pass would pause to pay their respects, feeling the watchful gaze of the giantess. The story of Ajdovska Deklica reminded all who heard it of the power of love and the enduring spirit of those who protect the land and its people.
To this day, the Pagan Girl on Vršič Pass stands as a poignant reminder of the legends woven into the very fabric of the mountains, a silent guardian watching over the valley, her story etched into the heart of Slovenia.
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